• 3 ft to 6 ft level and a 12″ plumbers level
• Electric drill and a 1/8″ drill bit
• Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers
• Tape measure, square, and pencil
• Inside cutting tool and a utility knife
• Plumbers grease and wood shims
• 100% silicone adhesive (3 tubes)
• #8 x 1 3/4″ flat-head screws (not included)
• Rapid-cure latex-modified thin-set mortar (only if the floor is more than 1/8″ out of level)

1. Build the stud structure to the rough dimensions for your model, or confirm an existing structure meets them. The opening is 60″ to 60 1/4″ wide, with a depth of 30, 32, or 36″ to match the pan.
2. Plan the stud layout to leave room for the control valve and water outlets. Verify the studs are square and plumb and the floor is perfectly level.
3. Leveling the floor is critical for proper alignment. Auto-leveling, rapid thin-set mortar can be used to level it. Be careful not to block the drain hole position.
4. Cut the drain opening in the floor. For wood floors, cut a 10″ × 10″ opening around the drain, or 12″ × 12″ for center-drain units.
5. On a concrete slab, the drain core through the slab must be at least 6″ in diameter, with a 10″ × 10″ × 1/2″ deep recess for end drains, or 12″ × 12″ × 1/2″ for center drains.
6. Clean the alcove floor of all debris. We recommend that a plumber complete the drain pipe connection.

1. Dry-fit the pan using a 3 ft level along all sides, checking side to side and front to back. Use the 12″ plumbers level to confirm the slope to the drain from all sides.
2. The pan can be shimmed up to 1/8″. If it is more than 1/8″ out of level, leveling cement is required (rapid-cure latex-modified thin-set is recommended).
3. Mark the position of the pan on the floor and the studs, then remove the pan from the enclosure.
4. Apply a 1/8″ silicone bead around the edge of the drain hole in the pan, then assemble the drain. Hand tighten only and remove excess silicone.
5. Inspect and clean the bottom of the pan so dust does not weaken adhesion. Apply 3 tubes of 100% silicone adhesive in a squared pattern (or one bag of rapid-cure thin-set). Each bead must be 3/4″ high or greater to make proper contact.
6. Set the pan back into the marked position. Confirm with the 12″ level that the floor slopes toward the drain from all sides. This is the last check: do not proceed until the slope is confirmed, or the warranty is voided.
7. If needed, place wood shims between the studs and the fastening flange to keep the pan centered and avoid distorting the flange. Pre-drill the flange, not the studs, with the 1/8″ bit, then fasten to every wall stud with #8 x 1 3/4″ flat-head screws.
8. Keep the center of each flange hole at least 1 5/8″ (41 mm) from the deck of the pan. Fill the holes with silicone before installing the screws, hand tighten only, and cut off any excess shims.

1. Cut the drain pipe even with the top of the rubber gasket using an inside cutting tool.
2. Using plumbers grease, lubricate the inside of the rubber gasket and slide it over the drain pipe with the bevel edge facing up. Push down until it seats.
3. Apply weight or downward pressure at the drain area to hold the fall to the drain, then tighten the compression ring until snug to seal and lock in the floor pitch.
4. Snap the grid plate into place.
5. Secure the pan while the silicone cures. Preferred: brace the unit close to the drain so the threshold sits flush to the subfloor along its full length, and leave the braces in place for 4 hours. Alternate: weight the pan with 5-gallon buckets of water for 4 hours.
6. Remove the braces or buckets and check the slope to the drain one last time.

Once the pan is secured, the shower walls above it are installed by others. The walls should extend to cover the pan mounting flanges, leaving a 1/8″ gap between the finished pan surface and the bottom of the walls; fill that gap with a silicone bathroom caulk. The pan manufacturer is not responsible for plumbing connections or for leaks in the wall enclosure.

Care: clean regularly with a non-abrasive spray or cream cleaner. Never use tile or grout cleaner, abrasive cleansers, scrapers, or metal brushes, which can scratch or dull the finish. Remove plaster residue with a plastic or wooden spatula wrapped in a moist cloth.

Backed by a lifetime limited residential warranty. For warranty questions, call 800-443-7269, selection 1.

A flexible water-retainer strip that mounts along the floor at the shower entry to help keep water inside a barrier-free shower. For the most effective water management, pair it with a properly sized, weighted shower curtain.

Order the correct size. The strip should be about 4 to 6″ longer than the shower opening, and a 1 1/2″ flat mounting surface is required. Order the end caps that match your unit’s corners.

• 36″ barrier-free unit (36″ opening): part 42CWR
• 48″ barrier-free unit (45 to 46″ opening): part 54CWR
• 60″ barrier-free unit (60″ opening): part 66CWR
• Finished radius end caps, pair: part EX1613 (for curved floor-to-wall corners)
• Finished square corner end caps, pair: part EX1615 (for square corners)

Installation overview:

1. Chemically clean the mounting surface with a clean rag and denatured rubbing alcohol, which is essential for proper adhesion.
2. Mark the center of the opening and the center of the strip. If the unit has a molded “water run-off assist” ridge near the entry, rest the inside edge of the strip on the crown of that ridge.
3. Peel the backing a section at a time, then stretch, align, and press the strip firmly to the floor, working from the center out to each wall.
4. Trim the excess about 1/2″ from the wall.
5. Dry-fit the end caps (trim if needed), bond them with clear silicone, wipe off the excess, and hold with masking tape until the adhesive cures.

Tools: utility knife, tape measure, straight edge, masking tape, rubbing alcohol, clean rags, and clear or white 100% silicone adhesive. For best results, apply at or above 60°F (15.6°C). Always follow the full instruction sheet included with the dam.

Trim pieces that cover the exposed mounting flanges of an installed shower for a clean, finished edge.

• Part A: 67″ × 3″ × 3/8″, square ends (1 required), for the top back flange
• Part B: 43″ × 3″ × 3/8″, one mitered end (2 required), for the top side flanges
• Part C: 83″ × 3″ × 3/8″, one mitered end (2 required), for the front vertical flanges

1. Carefully measure and cut each piece to fit; the mitered ends go at the front top corner on each side.
2. Cut the double-sided tape into 2″ pieces and apply to the mounting flanges at 8″ intervals (double up if needed).
3. Press the trim pieces into place, working around the unit.
4. To finish, caulk all edges with silicone bathroom caulk.